Happy Spring Break! Or as a friend of mine put it, Thaw Break! Remember my fascination with "running through the meadows" clothes? Maybe I should start to advertise it as a specialty - I just can't resist light cotton and vintage - looking lace. And this is no more true than for this piece, an airy cotton crop tank perfect for a summer evening out or maybe even a fun pajama top. Read on for lots of detail pictures and a few fun finishing techniques! I made this completely from scratch without a pattern, so I started by draping the cotton on my dress form to draw out the major lines and shape. As the cotton I had on hand was a pretty small piece, I also needed to make sure it would fit! I had a few garments in mind I was modeling it after. The biggest detail to pay attention to at this stage was the gathering I wanted along the back hem. Once the pieces were cut out, the next step was the lace overlay, which would cover the whole thing. Tiny pin tucks helped shaped the wide lace to the curves of the front. I attached the main lace pieces before sewing the side seams, to keep them a little neater. It was the finishing touches that took the most time and attention for this piece. Check out the captions below each picture for more explanation! And the finished product, front and back! I tried to turn the pictures right side up - but it's not cooperating today. Now I just need to find the patience to wait until it's a little warmer to wear it!
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Karena Design is officially launching a new project line! For a long time, I've wanted to experiment with creating custom lingerie. It might have a bit of a trashy reputation in some circles, but I really believe that beautiful lingerie in the right context can be classy, flattering, and just really fun to wear. I find the best inspiration in vintage styles. My first piece, a little sleeper set, was originally inspired by a lovely vintage set, and specifically designed as wedding lingerie. I've always loved light, lacy things. Sometimes I call them "running through the meadows" clothes, although this finished product probably wouldn't be worn outside. I started with a fine ivory cotton voile, and an assortment of laces. I designed this set from scratch, just using a pair of pajama shorts as a loose pattern for the bottoms. I finished most of the edges of this piece with lace, so while most interior seams were french seams, hems and insets were a little more complicated. For intimate apparel, it's imperative that it's elegant and comfortable inside and out. For wider lace edges, I usually double turn the hem up on the right side, the opposite that I normally would. I then sew the lace over it, with one seam right above the turned up edge and on the top edge of the lace, and a second seam just at the bottom edge of the garment. For thinner lace, like the scalloped piece I used in several places on this garment, I double turn and stitch a hem as normal, then use a fine zig zag stitch to sew the lace right over the seam. And for a lace inset with a curved edge, like the bodice inset on this garment, I started by tacking and stitching down the lace piece on top of the bodice, then cutting away the unneeded fabric. For the neatest finish on the inside, I turned under these raw edges and stitched them by hand. Whew! But even with all of the detail work, a lightweight cotton is easier to work with than say, a chiffon or other slippery or stretchy fabric. As I continue to design lingerie pieces, I'll be branching out into different materials, but for this piece, I enjoyed working with the simplicity of cotton. And I was very pleased with the finished product! The hardest part of lingerie is fitting precisely to a woman's curves - because even in a looser garment like this, the idea is to give as flattering of a fit as possible! Since I didn't use any elastic, I put a thin drawstring at the top of the shorts, and another in the back of the tank. I did the rest of the fitting with small darts along the neckline, that I then eased into the lace inset. And now here we are!
Hello friends! In the middle of moving across the city this fall, I've been working on a fun alterations project. I was given an old men's sport coat made of a really fun tweed wool. It's a little hard to see in a picture, but it's a mixed brown/gray with all sorts of interesting undertones that come out in the sunlight. And it's nice and warm, perfect for the our snowy Minnesota winters. Resizing a structured piece like this takes patience - especially when not only changing the size, but the gender. I brought in almost every seam, darts, shoulders, and arms, at least a half inch, removed the pocket flaps to make it a little more feminine, and brought the hem up several inches. The final touch will be new buttons for the front, and contrasting elbow patches to make it a little more unique. Another great bonus of this piece? It goes with both black and brown. And there's the (very nearly) finished product! Up next? Another dance recital collection, this time more of a traditional dress, and then a really fun bridesmaid dress alterations project. And of course Christmas is coming! I better get started on my gifts!
Even though it may not look like it outside, it's officially spring! And that means that wedding season is right around the corner! Is anyone else as excited as I am? I thought I'd take a few minutes to look at one particular wedding I had the chance to work on a couple of summers ago. I love to be involved in people's special days and help in any way I can. For this wedding, I created the bridesmaid dresses as well as styling the bridesmaids' hair and the bride's makeup for the big day. The bride was looking for a simple, elegant, sundress style in a royal purple, and couldn't find anything that worked just right and flattered her four bridesmaids. I came in, and I found a pattern that all of them could agree on, and that I could adjust to the different women. This was the first time the bride, her mother, and the maid of honor saw the first dress. Needless to say, they were all very excited. And did I mention that I also did the bridesmaid's hair? I've been styling hair for almost ten years for events and stage productions, everything from loose up-dos to formal vintage looks. If you're looking for a reasonable stylist for your next event, drop me a line at hkarenadesign. gmail.com. I worked with each of the ladies to find a style that worked with their personality and hair type, and still looked unified. Don't they look lovely? If you or anyone you know is looking for the perfect bridesmaid dress, hairstylist, or needs alterations for their big day, email me at hkarenadesign.gmail.com. I'd love to help you out! It's finally completed! My apologies for the long silence. I just returned from a week long theatre intensive in Nebraska and the last month has been chock full of rehearsals, performances, and preparation. I managed to squeeze some sewing in the cracks, and finished this piece just in time to wear it for a competition. I started with an old pattern to get my basic shape, and made a few revisions as I went. Pattern view E gave me the options I wanted for the sleeves and collar. If you know how to lay out a pattern, you can usually use less yardage than the pattern asks for. I just had to make sure I kept the alterations I was going to make in mind, and left a little extra seam allowance for french seams, to keep the chiffon edges neat.
The lace cuffs and side seams are my favorite part of this piece. Attention to detail is what makes a truly beautiful and unique garment.
I'm off to start work on a formal recital gown, and a few smaller projects, including some new pre-made items that will be available to order. Stay posted! There are a few projects that have been floating around in my imagination for a long time. When I was twelve, I wore a beautiful edwardian style blouse in a period production I was in, and ever since, I've wanted to try to find one for my own closet. There's just something about light, lacy garments that make me feel lovely. Last week, a good friend of mine introduced me to S.R. Harris fabric outlet, which is quite an amazing place. I found a remnant of ivory chiffon for two dollars a yard--perfect for a light weight blouse. As the ideas started forming, she also reminded me that they have big bins of very inexpensive lace appliques. After a little more digging, I had this collection: I can hardly wait to get to work! I'm looking at something along these lines, with some updating. More pictures to come once it's all finished!
Looking for you own custom or vintage inspired design? Email me with any ideas or questions at [email protected]. |
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